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                | IRRIGATION / TURF SCHEDULES | 
              
                | Fertilization and Irrigation Needs for Florida Lawns and
                  Landscapes
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                | L.E. Trenholm, E.F. Gilman, G.W. Knox, and R.J. Black 2 | 
              
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                | There are approximately four million acres of residential  and commercial lawns in Florida.  Florida is  not only surrounded by surface water, but is also home to many miles of rivers,  streams, springs, lakes, and karst areas. In addition, the water table in many  parts of the state is close to the soil surface. All of these conditions lead  to the potential for environmental impairment of ground and surface waters from  agricultural and urban horticultural activities. | 
              
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                | This has led to development of Best Management Practices  (BMPs) for many agricultural industries, including commercial and residential turf  grass and landscapes. How we fertilize and irrigate our lawns and landscapes  can have a direct impact on our environment, so it is imperative that the green  industry and homeowners alike adopt environmentally friendly landscape  maintenance practices. | 
              
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                | Establishment of Lawns and Landscapes
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                | Fertility and irrigation needs of recently established lawn  and landscape plants differ from those of mature lawn and landscape plants.  During establishment, plants are less able to support themselves and generally  require more fertilizer and water. The water and fertilizer needed vary  according to season and location in the state, but some general guidelines can  be followed: | 
              
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                | Lawns - Irrigation
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                | Florida  lawns are generally established by sod, sprigs, or plugs. These lawns will  require frequent, short watering to develop a root system following planting.  The objective in watering during establishment is to keep the root system alive  until it starts to root down and then to encourage deep rooting. To ensure that  roots don't die from lack of water following planting, irrigate a few times  during the day until roots have pegged down into the soil. This will generally  take five to ten days. Only irrigate enough to wet the top few inches of soil  for this period (five to fifteen minutes per zone). After roots are pegged  down, reduce irrigation gradually over the next two weeks to two to three times  weekly. In the summer months, under drought conditions, daily irrigation may be  necessary for this period. | 
              
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                | Fertility
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                | Begin fertilizing newly planted lawns about two weeks after  planting. Apply a complete (N-P-K) turf-type, slow-release nitrogen fertilizer  (e.g., 16-4-8 or 15-4-15) to provide 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000  square feet. Do this every two to three weeks until the lawn has completely  filled in, and then follow fertility regimes as recommended for your grass  species. Time for establishment will vary depending on planting method, but  most lawns should be considered established two to three months after planting.  If you are planting centipede grass, only apply fertilizer once during  establishment.  Look for the words slow-release or controlled-release on the  fertilizer labels. Nitrogen in this type of fertilizer will not burn or wash  away as readily as quick-release nitrogen sources. Don't be fooled by the word  organic. Some organic fertilizers are water-soluble and can leach as quickly as  inorganic fertilizers. | 
              
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                | Landscape -                 Irrigation | 
              
                | Research shows that, unlike established plants, recently  transplanted trees and shrubs survive best and establish most quickly with  light, frequent irrigation. Irrigation scheduling depends on the region of the  state. To ensure the survival of trees planted in spring or summer, provide two  irrigations each week in north Florida or  three irrigations each week in south Florida  during the first few months after planting (Table 1). Daily irrigation provides  the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent  irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. At  each irrigation, apply about two to three gallons of water per inch trunk  diameter (e.g. four to six gallons for a two-inch tree) over the root ball.  Never add irrigation if the root ball is saturated.  Shrubs planted during the warm part of the year should be  watered every day for the first few weeks after planting. Gradually decrease  the frequency of irrigation to every other day and then to every third day until  shrubs have established (Table 2). Shrubs planted in cooler seasons can be  watered less often. Bedding plants should be watered immediately after planting  and daily until they have become established. | 
              
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                | Fertility
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                | Controlled-release fertilizer can be applied on top of the  root ball and backfill soil or on top of the mulch at planting. There is no  need to mix it with the backfill soil or place it at the bottom of the planting  hole. Under most circumstances, mulch will not prevent fertilizer from reaching  the tree roots. Slow release fertilizer at planting has not been associated  with improved survival but can increase growth rate in some situations. Adding  soluble fertilizer to a newly installed plant could burn roots if too much is  applied. This will injure the plant and could kill it. Bedding plants should be fertilized before planting or at  planting time. Incorporate 12-4-12 or a similar analysis fertilizer uniformly  throughout the soil at the rate of one pound per 100 square feet of bed area.  Controlled fertilizers are ideal for establishing bedding plants. | 
              
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                | Established Lawns and Landscapes
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                | Lawns - 
                  Irrigation
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                | Lawns should be irrigated when approximately 50% of the lawn  shows signs of wilt. These signs include:• Leaf blades are folded in half lengthwise in an attempt to  conserve water.
 • The grass takes on a blue-gray tint.
 • Footprints or tire tracks remain visible on the grass long  after being made.
 • The length of time needed between irrigations will vary  depending upon grass species, soil characteristics, and your location in the  state, time of year, temperatures, and any particular micro-environmental  effects such as shade. If rain is forecast in the next two days, delay  irrigation.
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                | PDF DOCUMENT PROVIDED BY THE UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA EXTENSION INSTITUTE OF FOOD AND AGRIGULTURAL SCIENCE |